Athela Fadul, a young Muslim hijabi model blossoming in her modeling career, recalls a crucial moment in her childhood when she wished there was someone that looked like her on the pages and stages: Her elementary school peers pointed out the difference in her appearance and ostracized her.

Those instances made her long for others like her to draw inspiration from. They marked her impetus during the early stages of her modeling career.

“I would have loved, when I was growing up younger, to see someone who looks like me,” says Fadul. “I would love to see a Muslim person.”

Although racial and ethnic diversity in fashion modeling worldwide has been improving, Muslims are still overlooked. “We were never someone’s first choice,” says one model.

More hijabi, or visually unambiguous Muslim representation, is still needed. That, too, with authentic Muslims casted — it seems pretty obvious, but not all industry folk take this part seriously.

Muslims also find themselves having to carry their own hijabs and modest, long-sleeved clothes themselves to photoshoots quite frequently. Assumptions are made of not covering up. Not to mention there simply aren’t enough Islamic boutiques that cater to modest dressers in California, and practically none in Los Angeles. It should not be only specialist boutiques, individuals and companies that serve Muslims well.

Models still seek more widespread and authentic Muslim representation. Plus newcomers are not booking gigs as much as they could be and thus struggle to transition into a full-time career. Moreover, being the only Muslim model or model of color in the room can feel like a tokenistic, shallow show of diversity.

Early in her career, Fadul had a hard time expressing her religious boundaries to an unnamed company she worked with, that she adds she “really liked.” The problem mostly concerned her being new to the industry as she had not yet established her non-negotiable rules. Her “modesty boundary” was crossed during her first photoshoot.

She “didn’t feel comfortable” with it as it went against her religious beliefs, so after confiding in a close friend she decided to “stand up and talk to them.”

“I want to make sure that if I’m going down this industry,” says Fadul, “I don’t want to lose myself to the industry.” So she firmly established her boundaries.

Luckily, this company was very understanding about her boundaries, was flexible and made amends by not publishing (and presumably deleting) the photographs. Fadul says, “At the end of the day, they were really respectful to me.”

Unfortunately, an easy resolution is not always the outcome for every Muslim in the industry.

Although Katalo has been applying for stock modeling gigs, the work she books has become much less frequent in recent months even though the industry itself is not slowing down. Fadul also has applied for modeling jobs and is waiting for word on them.

Muslim (mis-)representation in Fashion

Stock photography as a commercial category often includes models that better reflect the average person. And, yet, it still overlooks Muslim models in calls for diversity.

Amal Katalo, a final-year medical student in Novi Sad, Serbia, works as a freelance commercial stock model. She discusses her observations of modeling in predominantly white Western countries.

Katalo and her friend were contacted simultaneously to pose as Muslim models in a photoshoot — but only one of them was actually Muslim. And when they dared to voice discomfort at the notion, the producer went on a rampage on social media, again, targeting only one of them.

The women were conversing at a coffee shop in Novi Sad, Serbia, when the producer texted them at the same time to participate in a lifestyle photoshoot. The non-Muslim woman declined citing unease with the false representation, and Katalo commented that she did not think it was “appropriate”.

A month later, the producer published photographs of two different models who Katalo knew “for a fact” were not Muslim dressed in hijabs and modest clothing. One could find hijabi models if they properly searched, but “[he] probably didn’t look hard enough”, says Katalo. She politely messaged him that she thought it was a little inappropriate yet again.

In retaliation, he publicized screenshots of their conversation on his Instagram story entirely out of context in an attempt to victimize himself. Katalo says he was calling her out. For daring to call out an injustice, “He used those three words,” she says. “Unprofessional, hypocritical and dramatic.”

Bullies with big egos and discriminatory undertones are unfortunately a truism models of color often face.

Muslim models on top of that are often tokenized at best or completely overshadowed and overlooked at worst. That’s the case at least for those that are cultural or practicing Muslims, which is evident with females who wear hijabs and males that grow a beard.

Tokenism means making only a superficial effort to hire a small number of people from underrepresented groups to portray the mere appearance of racial equality within a workforce. It is another hurdle that Muslim models face.

“If they need Muslim models and they don’t have enough of them,” says Katalo, “they will just whip a scarf — a really poorly made hijab — on a model, on the whitest model you will find.”

In speaking about photographers and producers, Fadul says that the sentiment goes, “‘We utilize them one time, and that’s good enough, we did diversity from that point.’”

In speaking of models and influencers of color more broadly, Daniel T. Durbin, a communications professor at the University of Southern California, says, “They’re there to represent something and there’s a certain tokenistic aspect to that.” The problem with tokenistic modeling is that sets up a target audience and then lends itself to a “false sense of greater diversity.”

Durbin believes that tokenism is even more of an issue now. “I certainly would accept that there is, in many respects, much more typecasting now,” says Durbin especially of fashion modeling on the catwalk.

Personal Intrigue

I once modeled a schoolmate’s designs for her A Level (British prep school course) Fashion and Textiles class at a Creative Arts event in 2019 at Ashbourne College, London, UK. Her designs were inspired by traditional Saudi Arabian clothing styles on which she imparted her contemporary take.

It was my first experience modeling, so the fact that most of this designer’s models had Middle Eastern roots did not occur to me until recently when I realized how rare a room packed with models of color — let alone originating from Arab countries — really was. And it made me wonder… why is it so rare to see Muslim or Arab representation in fashion?

Historical Overview: Types of Modeling & Models

Fashion modeling includes your typical high-end runway catwalks, whereas commercial modeling includes everyday people and is off the runway in print, editorials, stock photography and advertisements.

Runway models, both female or male, typically have the very paper-thin human coat hanger appearance. On the other hand were fit models that (slightly) more closely represented a typical human body type. Fit models showcase how fashions are supposed to look in everyday life, while runway models must mirror what garments look like on a coat hanger.

Racial and ethnic diversity began peaking in the 1970s, and it kept growing throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s.

To further the hierarchy within modeling, there were models and then there were supermodels. The supermodel phenomenon arose in the 1980s and lasted until the early 2000s. Think Christie Brinkley, Linda Evangelista or Tyra Banks.

The 2010s and 2020s brought an aggressive push towards diversification of body types.

Diversity and the Fashion Industry

There is no modeling type or opportunity that Fadul would avoid. “I want to break into the industry in a different manner, I want to show that there’s representation,” says Fadul. She wants to do it all to prove herself and represent her community.

In response to those that think Muslims can’t do the same things as non-Muslims, Fadul says, “We can do it, but there are different standards for us because that’s what we religiously believe.” It must fit the religious boundary.

Fadul wants to transition into modelling full-time and so she hopes to find an agency to sign with. She currently works as a chief operating officer at Friends of Dialysis and an outreach coordinator at the Sudanese American Professionals Society.

Fadul has done a makeup photoshoot for NYX, a makeup brand. She has also modelled clothes including hijab-focused photoshoots for brands like as VELA.

Through modelling, Fadul says that she can promote awareness and advocacy for modesty, communicating to the masses “there are people who look like me.”

In the future, she wants to do fashion runways. She also seeks an agency that does editorials because she loves the creative freedom. Now she’s eyeing the We Love Jeans organisation.

“I would love to see more modest clothing on fashion walkways,” says Fadul.

Fadul is deeply inspired by her family in Sudan that she describes as strong, influential motivators.

Fadul’s dream would be to work with Vogue. She likes their photography and says, “They have that creative outlook that I’m trying to align myself with.”

Peter Robbins, a design lecturer at the University of Southern California and casting agent for fashion campaigns, says, “I feel that at the upper end of the fashion industry they’re very typecast, and you have specific models for certain specific [fields].”

Robbins says that the fashion industry is going through a reevaluation and that not using models of different ethnicities means being out of touch with what’s going on in fashion design. “Fashion is now actually a leading edge of speaking to diversity in all its forms gender, race, body types,” says Robbins.

The US is actually doing quite well in terms of its racial diversity on the runway — better than ever, in fact. With 54.9% non-white models, New York was the city with the greatest racial diversity, with London coming in second at 50.9% according to The Fashion Spot’s diversity report for Fall 2022.

Despite these developments, visibly Muslim models (those that wear the hijab or headscarf) are hard to find. There isn’t even any data online where someone studied the representation of, say, hijabi Muslim women models on fashion runways.

“I feel like we were never someone’s first choice”, says Katalo, “That’s probably how a lot of muslim models feel.” She wonders if knowing that one is not the first choice is the reason that Muslims don’t put themselves out there in fashion or modelling, “because they know we’re going to be met with dead ends.”

Katalo sees her other non-white friends, particularly black people, getting hired for shoots more regularly than she does. This is despite the fact that she is already on the industry’s roster. “But I’d also consider myself diversity,” she says.

“The US is a difficult scenario amongst Muslims”, adds Fadul. “Thankfully,” she says, “Anaheim is the biggest hub for Muslims.”

The Southern Californian city of Anaheim in Orange Country — most popularly known for Disneyland resort — is home to Little Arabia, a district of Middle Eastern shops, restaurants and other establishments catering to the Arab-American community.

Fadul looks up to the runway Muslim model Halima Aden as her inspiration. “I definitely want to see myself walk down her footsteps. I definitely would love to do those kinds of fashion walkways where I can wear modest attire,” says Fadul.

As for why Aden quit the modeling world, Fadul says, “I definitely resonate what she was speaking on, because it’s so easy to be pulled in this industry.”

Robbins says that the many ethnically diverse supermodels have resulted in “fewer barriers” and changed the equation. “But there is still more to be done.”

As for the fashion industry, Fadul also wishes to see some changes.

Fadul says she wants to see “more modesty in the fashion game.” Quite frankly, she just wants to see “people who represent Muslims out there” as well as more representation of how she dresses. “There’s different types of fashion out there because fashion is subjective. And it’s beautiful for how we interpret ourselves.”

Wati Grossman, the publisher of a fashion sustainability magazine Circle Ahead and former fashion designer , wishes that mainstream audiences ought to see more Muslim models in mainstream fashion campaigns. “I don't understand why there aren’t more of them,” says Grossman.

“Walmart, Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s should be thinking more about employing per catalogue at least one woman wearing a headscarf who’s clearly brown or has a tanned complexion,” adds Grossman. Grossman says there needs to be a hijabi model that’s also a “bit more edgy” for better representation.

“There definitely needs to be more Muslim representation in the fashion industry, especially in modelling,” says Talia Grossman, a student-athlete on the USC women’s soccer team that has both Muslim and Jewish heritages. “I’m starting to see a bit in the athletic world. Nike has some Muslim models, and some have a hijab, but I think there can be so much more.”

Islamic Modest Fashion

Many Muslims discuss how there simply isn’t enough Muslim-appropriate clothing around not only Los Angeles but nationwide as well. Much is available online, but that does not suffice for everyone. Fadul says “hopefully, we can see more in-store boutiques.”

Zeina Badawi, a USC computer science senior and model, says that fashion for Muslims tends to be “flattened out” to what people expect Muslim women wear, rather than the reality. “The biggest misconception is ‘what do Muslim women wear?’”, questions Badawi. “It doesn’t look like what most media outlets put out there.”

Ali Abdulhussein Amin, owner of the Taleen Islamic Fashion store, cites the rise of online shopping as the main reason there are few brick-and-mortar stores. “But competition, it’s online,” says Amin. “So you take your chance: if you want good quality come to the store, or if you want cheaper prices go online.”

“Some people come here because they know the quality of my store, and they don’t have the time to wait for shipping.” In discussing the availability of Islamic clothing, Amin says definitively, “we need more.”

La Zwina Boutique is a clothing store in Anaheim’s Little Arabia that has been catering to Muslim women since 2018. Megan Dadsi, the shop founder owner, who converted to Islam found that regular stores were often failed to fully cover one’s body. The offerings exhibit a subtle Moroccan and Turkish influence while remaining general enough for all.

“My dream for myself is for Muslim sisters to feel comfortable,” says Dadsi, and to “find clothing that also looks modest, but fashionable as well”. Her goal is to “show beauty through modesty,” and to make modesty accessible and affordable.

Katalo finds that she often has to carry her own outfits when modelling for stock photography. Sometimes clothes are provided, “but usually they’re not hijabi friendly”, she says, as they might have short sleeves.

She does wish there were more options, saying, “It doesn’t cost anything to get something that’s long sleeved… Sorry, it’s not that deep.” Likewise, she acknowledges that “it’s not too serious” because it’s about what’s already available.

“These photoshoots are low budget, so I’m not too fussed if they don’t have something,” says Katalo. “Because at the end of the day I always have backup and I think they always expect me to bring backup.”

Fadul, too, has been to photoshoots where some companies don’t provide hijabs. “So they’ll just tell me, ‘Hey, these are the colours that we want you to wear’” in advance.

Hijab companies do often supply hijabs to their models though, which makes for a positive experience. “I love that I love working with VELA [a headscarf retailer]; they really line up with my values,” says Fadul.

Intriguingly, La Zwina boutique’s customer base also extends out to non-Muslims. Dadsi says that even even Orthodox Christians and Jews shop at the boutique. “We have all sorts of different backgrounds that just want to come in even if they’re non religious.”

Dadsi says that about 80% of their customers are Muslim and about 20% are non-Muslim.

Fadul adds that there are “a lot of different Muslims out there, different cultures”, including Black Muslim Americans in this country. However she does not see a lot of Asian Muslim representation although she would like to.

“We need to see that face not only in the cover, but in social media,” says Helene Reiner, design instructor at the University of Southern California. “If we don’t change, it means we’re not changing to address our global community.”

“Modesty is beautiful. It comes in all different forms,” says Dadsi. “And I feel like not only for our Muslimah community, but all communities. Definitely just modest and beautiful.”